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Daily Simple Questions Thread. Begin your ascension today! For an in-depth explanation of our rules don't forget to check our rules wiki page. For an in-depth explanation of our giveaway rules don't forget to check our rules wiki page. Does the windows 10 ISO creation tool still allow you to install clean versions of windows 10 for free after the July 29 deadline? I currently use windows 10 installed via this method, without needing a licence key. I recently discovered rootkits on my PC and an hoping to reinstall windows 10 asap, to limit damage.

Essentially, after the July 29 deadline, can I still download a windows 10 ISO and use it without a licence key? You already upgraded, so yes, you can reinstall using the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool. I didn't 'upgrade' from a previous version technically. I just dont want to uninstall windows to realise it costs money to reinstall.

Thanks for your quick reply! If your Windows is activated now and it is the same Hardware, then it won't cost anything. If it is different hardware, it depends on your Key. Not activated as such. Same hardware though. Does this non activation rule me out of a free reinstall? I may be pestering, but I want to make sure I dont make a costly stuff up. If you excuse my french, that means you are fucked basically. I think the limit is 3 months, then Windows 10 will start pestering you to pay for it.

You should've upgraded from Windows 7 when you had the chance. You can try and enter your Windows 7 Key, but the period is over, so But if you reinstall nothing should change.

It will still not be activated, but at some point, it will bitch. Strange, Ive been using this unactivated version for almost 9 months now. Because of the free period. I am not sure when MS will pull the trigger here, but I am sure they will. Aside from these basic limitations, your Windows 10 system will continue to work forever.

The only thing that could change this is a Windows 10 update, but Microsoft has become increasingly lenient since Windows 7.

The version of unactivated windows in the article is currently what i run. Ill give it a shot tomorrow, tbh, having to possibly pay for windows is better than having rootkits. I was able to activate Windows 10 using a Windows 8 key on August 1st so you might still be able to use a Windows 7 key. Just download the upgrade utility and do it properly you can't use GWX anymore Alternatively, you can still enter a previous windows key during a clean install and it will still work It will activate fine, Windows is bound to your Motherboard.

This restriction also only applies to OEM Editions, those are the ones coming with pre-built PC's or when labeled as such and sold separately. I've heard of this option before but never actually did it, is it safe?

I mean, is it a complete reset to vanilla status or a somewhere in between compromise? From what I can see it does a completely clean install. The only things left are the things tied to your Microsoft account.

Wallpaper, certain settings etc. Yes, it should be tied to your motherboard, so it should automatically activate when you reinstall. With the new Anniversary Update your license will now be tied to your Microsoft account instead of your motherboard. It should say "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account". This will only work if you either used the free upgrade before July 29, bought a license from the Windows Store or if you are a Windows Insider.

This won't happen if you bought a key at any other store or if you bought a Windows 10 device. I found that microsoft keeps a record of your key and pc ID. I found when you try to fresh install if your connected to the internet when windows 10 phones home it gets told that it is valid if the PC ID is the same as before. Then Poof. However I did run produkey on my machine and pulled my windows 10 product key just in case. This way I could type in the key if requested. This is what I would suggest.

Yes, and even so You just need to download the upgrade utility. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy. All rights reserved. Want to join? Log in or sign up in seconds. Submit a glorious link. Submit a glorious text post. Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit.

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Also, leave that shit in RAID. I used a manky, gross, old USB 2. I formatted it to NTFS before making it a recovery media. Dug up this old post to see if someone with the same problem can help. I can uncheck a box and explore the USB, which shows the RAID driver, but when I try to install it the computer just goes into infinite busy screen mode.

It sat for 10 minutes before I rebooted and gave up. Do you happen to know if I need to install other drivers first, or do it in any particular order? I installed the Intel driver to the root folder of the USB key, which allowed windows to see the driver. That might work for you. I see people worried about stability are all choosing RAID, but most of those discussion dated 2 month ago.

I am wondering whether recent bios update fixed issues with AHCI or not. I want to what do you think since you have used both, can you share? Author here. I understand your concern.

BIOS updates by Dell, especially more recent updates, have made this a very gray-area issue. I can only recommend leaving the laptop in the way it was shipped to you. If you have an SSD in a or , just leave it how it is.

I honestly don't understand what you mean when you talk about "working" when your laptop is asleep. That bit really confuses me. Hey buddy, thanks for your reply. Sorry, I meant when I start the laptop from sleep mode closing the lid: sleep mode, then opening the lid, waking up from sleep!

Anyway, do you see performance drop in SSD after waking up from sleep mode? That's why I am talking about. Same situation with AHCI works fine, no drop in performance.

Did you run any application to test that? Because another person was saying same thing, but when he used CrystalDuskMark, he confirmed the issue. Would you mind trying that app and report back your the SSD performance after slip?

Hey yourself! I switched back to RAID. I'd live with slower speed but not BSOD. I wish they fix the issue, I watch for new drivers. Do a cold boot and run the app, and test it again after sleep.

It's a matter of preference then! I'd rather close the lid and put it to sleep. With fast start up, it takes a second to boot up! Didn't you open the link, did you? Just switched and confirm no drop in performance after posted. Any instability in AHCI, will revert back. Seems good so far. Just did a reinstall with AHCI. I am not experiencing any issues with the HDD portion at least. I reverted back to the RAID mode.

Did you install the latest windows updates? That should fix the touch issue. Yes, I have the latest updates. Still seeing issues, will try the Synaptics driver mentioned. I had 1 BSOD the first time, but none after. Did you have touch pad issue on RAID as well, right?

Hi there, great guide! Thanks a lot for this. I don't want the raid configuration so what do I set the bios to? I'm not entirely sure though. I have a feeling that you should just be able to replace the hard drive and follow this guide to install Windows 10 fresh. There is a small chance Windows might recognize a hardware change and ask you to enter a new product key, but I think this is unlikely I'm going to look into it. I'd download the specific driver for your SSD and save it externally somewhere just in case.

During step 16 make sure you don't delete any partitions from your 1TB hard drive - If you do it will erase the drive although not completely wipe the data off it. I've looked into the act replacing the OS drive for a Windows 10 machine and most of the information I have come across says that replacing the hard drive should not trigger Windows 10 to seek a product key.

If, during the Windows 10 installation, you're greeted with a prompt looking for the product key, just hit "Skip". If all else fails, just give Dell a call and tell them you need the product key.

I've heard other people say Dell obliged. I am not reading all the comments on this guide, so if this has been pointed out already, I am sorry, but in case it has not been I think it has to be said.

AHCI is far more stable on these systems than RAID mode because it does not require additional drivers to work and does not, in fact, consume more battery life. On my personal tests which I have ran, as well as some others you can find online you will find that AHCI does provide slightly better performance in these drives, especially when paired with Samsung's EVO Pro drivers.

Samsung even suggests you use it on their commercial drives if you are not running them in a raid array. These drives, even if you set it to [P]ATA mode ie.

So if this is the case, why then does it even matter what we set it to? Well the OS cannot actually interact with the SSDs directly, it has to go through the motherboard via some drivers, and those drivers actually decide about how to queue and send commands, for example.

Windows has some built in NVMe drivers, though Samsung's are better when using Samsung drives and even though neither they nor Dell released official device drivers for the series of M. So at this point Windows sends commands to the motherboard via these drivers and the motherboard forwards them to the drive. Depending on how the motherboard is configured Windows does this in different ways.

Here is the really important part to understand, and that is what happens once the commands get to the motherboard when you are using Intel RAID. Because this emulation is on a hardware level it is not very resource consuming, however this extra step does lower your performance a little bit.

Regardless of how you have it set up on these laptops it will ultimately all boil down to the motherboard running in AHCI mode because you do not have a functioning RAID array, but one method requires an extra step or two. So its a really simple, common sense, logic problem. Interesting rebuttal. I'll look into some of your claims.

But ACHI is the wrong choice. I only know that from what I've heard from other people. Interesting, every other time I go to research a point I go to make against you I end up learning something new. Curious about the Pro drivers I have not read the comments on your guides because its way too long and honestly I have not had the time yet.

Now I don't have any numbers to show either, I realize this. I did run benchmarks when I made these switches but I did not save the results because I never thought I would end up posting them. If I ever have to reinstall Windows, or I ever decide to pick this up professionally I will. When my Intel WIFI card comes today or tomorrow I will run benchmarks on the Dell one and it as well to give actual proof on whether or not it has any benefits and to decide on if to return it or not based on more than how many milliseconds "I feel" that my web pages are loading.

People seem to have instability with ACHI for several reasons, not the least of which is Dell cutting corners on the manufacturing of these laptops to bring the cost down and sending out thousands of units with bad system boards.

It's nearly impossible to imagine that ACHI would be less stable, unless people are misunderstanding stability as performance. It's like stating that VGA mode on Windows is less stable than when you have proper graphics drivers installed. Yes, without proper graphic drivers installed you wont be able to get most of the features of your GPU integrated or otherwise, and your resolution is usually limited to, well, VGA, however, it will never crash on you, because it is as stable and basic as it can be.

I think people misunderstand these. Some people also seem to try and fix Windows after switching instead of doing a clean install. In the real world it might not really matter, but its just a matter of logic. When you drive to your friend's house, you wouldn't take 5 right turns when you can just make 1 left turn obviously assuming the street layout allows for this.

Details required :. Cancel Submit. Sumit Independent Advisor Independent Advisor. There is no free upgrade now - the offer ended in Activated Windows 10 after upgrading from Windows 7, using the media creation tool doesn't provide a guarantee that Windows would remain activated forever.

I have seen countless cases on the forum where Windows mysteriously deactivated. For a new computer, you would have to buy a new license. How satisfied are you with this reply?

What's stopping you, its your computer? Its nice that the newer editions provide warnings and more abort and restore methods. But, here is a good example that I've made a post about recently. For myself I have many devices and having a computer chilling doing updates and so forth has no impact on me. In the enterprise environment I have a tweaked master image with exactly what is needed and kept up to date that I deploy to workstations.

I can refresh any employee's workstation within 15mins and they are back to working. Slipstreaming is a interesting approach that is largely defeated by using the image deployment method. Windows 7 is horrible compared to 8. Ya, I have a gtx and it idles 4c-5c less in Windows 8. As for the ui you get used to it, the start screen is ok, I hate the layout for your settings options for your account though. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy.

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It will activate fine, Windows is bound to your Motherboard. This restriction also only applies to OEM Editions, those are the ones coming with pre-built PC's or when labeled as such and sold separately. I've heard of this option before but never actually did it, is it safe? I mean, is it a complete reset to vanilla status or a somewhere in between compromise?

From what I can see it does a completely clean install. The only things left are the things tied to your Microsoft account. Wallpaper, certain settings etc. Yes, it should be tied to your motherboard, so it should automatically activate when you reinstall. With the new Anniversary Update your license will now be tied to your Microsoft account instead of your motherboard.

It should say "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account". This will only work if you either used the free upgrade before July 29, bought a license from the Windows Store or if you are a Windows Insider. This won't happen if you bought a key at any other store or if you bought a Windows 10 device. I found that microsoft keeps a record of your key and pc ID. I found when you try to fresh install if your connected to the internet when windows 10 phones home it gets told that it is valid if the PC ID is the same as before.

Then Poof. However I did run produkey on my machine and pulled my windows 10 product key just in case. This way I could type in the key if requested. This is what I would suggest. Yes, and even so You just need to download the upgrade utility. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy.

All rights reserved. Want to join? Log in or sign up in seconds. Submit a glorious link. Submit a glorious text post. Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit. General Information Everybody is welcome here, even those that have yet to ascend.

Every kind of PC related content is welcome here. This includes build help, tech support, and any kind of doubt one might have about PC ownership.

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